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Discovering Cameroon: Africa in One Country
by
Jerry W. Bird
 "If
you dance, you vibrate - and he who vibrates
lives." Popular quotation.
Mount
Cameroon, West Africa's highest peak, stands like a
giant sentinel, gazing out over the Gulf of Guinea
on Africa's Atlantic
Coast. Among
it's legendary names is "Throne of Thunder," a
fitting tribute to the powerful gods that are said
to inhabit the mountain's inner core. Our group of
ATA members and journalists approached the 'throne'
shortly after one of its frequent volcanic
eruptions, and the ribbons of cooled lava resembled
grey frosting oozing from an enormous layer cake.
The lava beds are evident from the main highway to
Kribi and a hiking trail winds up and over them.
The warning signs advised us to pay respect and to
tread gently in this eco- sensitive area. Mount
Cameroon's rugged peak is the crown jewel of a
chain of volcanic mountains that are strung like a
giant pearl necklace along the Cameroon Nigeria
border. The range stretches from here all the way
to the northern plains of Maroua, gateway to Waza
National Park. Each February the popular ' Course
of Hope.' attracts aspiring climbers to the area
and we're told that, while the ascent is
challenging, it's not dangerous or overly
strenuous.
Many other sights
would amaze and impress us that day and in the week
to follow. Speaking personally, this trip was by
far the most complete tour of any ATA- African host
country I had experienced to date. At its
conclusion most travelers in our group were tired -
and somewhat bedazzled - yet I enjoyed a feeling of
solid accomplishment. As a result I will never
forget Cameroon and always hunger for
more.
Cameroon's
Minister of Tourism , Hon. Pierre Helé, puts
"ecology first" in his country's efforts to win an
important share of the tourist trade from North
America and other markets we hope to target for his
ministry. But its not an absolute beginning on the
road to economic success - this progressive country
is already high on the preferred list in terms of
business travel. Scan the financial pages, or dig a
little deeper in the Internet, and you'll see what
I mean - the country is rich with potential in
terms of agriculture, forestry, marine life,
minerals and natural resources. And a word to the
wise, "Where business goes, tourism flows" - and
vice versa. Europeans discovered long ago what most
North Americans have yet to learn - that Cameroon
is a Tourism Mecca in the raw. Ministry officials
such as our tour leader Ebenezer Elimbi
(below) agree with with the popular expression that
their land is Africa in One country." In other
words Cameroon is a little bit of everything, or as
my Grade 9 Spanish textbook said in its title, "de
todo un poco."
Cruising the
West Central African Countryside
Our escorted
bus trip through the hills, plains, valleys and
coastline of Cameroon was quite similar to taking a
small ship cruise or a personal rail tour. Why?- it
provided whistle stops, combined with extended
visits, photo opportunities and overnight moorings.
Ports of call on
this 'amazing land cruise' from Yaounde and Douala,
included Edea, Kribi, Limbe, Buea, Bafang,
Bandjoun, Bafoussam, Bamenda, Bangangte, Bafia,
Bafut, Foumban, Bafia, Maroua, Pouss, Mokolo,
Rhumsiki, Mora and Waza National Game Park. Sounds
like a heavy duty schedule - right? Well, the
surprising thing was the fact that in spite of all
the cities, towns and villages mentioned, nothing
was the same. In other words, when they say "Africa
in One country" they mean exactly that, as we
discovered in a way that you could never do by
flying . Whether the roads were smooth and broad or
rough and dusty, there was always something new and
interesting to look forward
to.
Doors of
Hospitality in
Cameroon
Our overnight stays on the North-South tour were at
Yaounde - Kribi - Douala - Limbe - Bamenda - Maroua
and Waza, and while the accommodation was varied I
would recommend all the hotels selected to our tour
operator friends.
Being
"at home in Yaounde Cameroon's visitor- friendly
capital
After
spending several fun weeks in Yaounde, with a
little business thrown in, Cameroon's capital city,
the place really started to feel like home. Almost
everyone we encountered knew who we were and made
us welcome, and the local print and broadcast media
were anxious to record and publish our views on the
country and its potential for trade and tourism. To
say that I am yearning to return at the drop of a
hat is truly an understatement - the Yaounde
experience stands out as one of the most
uforgettable periods of my life. Our book of
memories is full to the brim with images of
Cameroon and its people, and our magazine's photo
library is loaded with great scenes. Having a
background in audio visual writing and production,
one facet I remember most vividly about Yaounde was
the endless number of superb cinemascopic vistas,
starting with the view from the Hilton Yaounde's
penthouse. Cruising the winding road to the Mount
Febé Hotel is awesome, and the impressive
route that leads to the modern government complex
makes you think you're on the Riviera. After all,
like Rome, this emerging Africa capital
incorporates seven charming hills, and each offers
a different set of perspectives.
As time marches
on, say another decade or so, I can envision the
city growing even more attractive, liveable and
cosmopolitan. We stayed long enough to pick some
favorite places to dine, and one of mine is simply
called the "Cafe Yaounde." It's an Italian style
restaurant that resembles a Roman villa, perched on
a hillside and surrounded by lush gardens - with a
live monkey guarding the entrance. As a matter of
fact, a garden party was in progress on our second
visit. We spent several delightful candlelit
evenings there, taking our time learning about
Cameroon, gazing out over the city. Of course the
food and wines were superb. Before our next edition
of Africa Travel Magazine, I will add more
impressions of Yaounde and area, but for the
moment, here is some information on how we at ATA
presented our impressions of Cameroon to the world.
Another highlight
was the huge outdoor marketplace we encountered on
the way to a baptism ceremony, that included
everything from fresh pineapples to a bustling
lumber yard, where individuals sell building
product direct - one of the best examples of free
enterprise I've seen anywhere. Living in an area of
Canada that's dependent upon forestry, this was of
particular interest. The city offers a wide variety
of interesting shops, and we spent several days
going back and forth to the tailors having
purchased bolts of colorful fabric for custom made
African Clothing. It's really a buyers'
paradise.
ATA's Cameroon
message on BBC
Ever since returning from Cameroon, we've been
spreading the word that here's a country that's
truly ready to welcome visitors and doing
everything to pave the way. That's why we are so
pleased with response from other media, such as the
prestgious British Broadcasting Corporation
(BBC).
The Africa Travel
Association was featured on BBC World Service in
London. A BBC World Service Radio interview
featured the ATA 5th Ecotourism, Commerce &
Investment Symposium in Yaounde, Cameroon in
December, 2001. Executive Director Mira Berman was
interviewed at BBC's New York studios prior to the
event. The second part of the program took included
a telephone interview with the Secretary General of
the Cameroon Ministry of Tourism during the
Ecotourism Symposium. Cameroon
hosted a highly successful Ecotourism, Commerce and
Investment Symposium in 2001, which we enjoyed to
the fullest as a learning experience and an example
of African hospitality at its best.
On
behalf of my ATA colleagues, I encourage you to
visit this fascinating country during 2003 - the
climate is superb.
Douala,
Cameroon's largest city with over 2 million
inhabitants, has earned the honor of hosting the
Africa Travel Association's 29th International
Congress in May , 2004. Being host country of ATA's
5th Ectourism, Commerce and Investment Symposium in
2001 was a fitting prelude. During this prestigious
event we had many opportunities to sample the
hospitality and feel the true spirit of the people,
who make up this land they call Africa in One
country. Nowhere was this feeling more evident than
in Douala during the Ngondo Festival, a spectacle
unlike anything I've ever seen in Africa. Annual
festivals and gala events abound throughout West
Africa, but this one tops them all as a simply
outstanding spectacle that has deep spiritual
significance.
The River
God: Having read Wilbur Smith's great book "The
River God," concerning life on the Nile and Blue
Nile in ancient times, I have been keenly
interested in the rivers of Central Africa and the
mysteries they hold. In this case, the Wouri River,
focal point of the Ngondo Festival in Douala, has
its own River Gods, it's a ceremony involving the
"water spirits," who communicate their message in
an unusual way. For starters, one could not have
asked for a nicer day, as our delegates descended
from the Ministry's tour buses and the ATA members
took their seats in a specially reserved, tented
area. Speaking of the weather, this occasion was
typical of most days during our month long stay in
Cameroon, deep blue skies, puffy cotton candy
clouds, and just the right measure of sun shine to
make it comfortable. This was one of my biggest
surprises, perhaps being located on the
Wouri River,
24 km (15 miles) from the Atlantic Coast is
the reason.
In a few days, I
will talk at length about this great event and why
its story is so significant in the local customs
and culture.
There are many
more other reasons to visit Douala, and from there,
you will enjoy good transportation links to all of
Cameroon. Contact us anytime: mailto:africa@dowco.com,
and make plans to attend ATA's great event in
2004.
Footnotes:
While Douala is
not the capital of Cameroon, it is the most
significant city in terms of population, and the
economic role it plays in the overall economy. It
is said to be named after the Douala, a black
African ethnic group that originally settled in the
area. The chief commercial center, Douala has an
airport and extensive docks, and is a terminus for
two railway lines extending into the interior.
Industries include the manufacture of aluminum
products, beer, soft drinks, textiles, and the
processing of timber and cacao beans. Douala's port
handles some 95 percent of the country's maritime
traffic, and is second only to Kinshasa as Central
Africa's largest city.
Douala is
divided into quarters or quarters: Aqua, is the
center of the city, the Stand Municipal Artisans,
and Banjo the administrative district.
Currency:1
Communaute Financiere Africaine franc (CFAF) = 100
centimes
Popular quotation: "Life is music and the beat of
the heart is its rhythm
If you dance, you vibrate and he who vibrates
lives."
Cameroon is a
living tradition and each region has its own
style
It is a country where you can still be Tarzan. In
the last ten years ago, ecotourism has become a
major feature in tour operator's
itineraries.
Hospitality
Plus: When tourists arrive in Cameroon they are
not left to themselves because according to local
custom, the visitor is full-fledged member of the
Cameroon family. A pleasant welcome is a golden
rule in this hospitable country. We have the proof
during our stay during the entire month of December
2001.
Climbing Mount
Cameroun: Mount Cameroun, which we visited
during a trip to the beach area at Kribi, is West
Africa's highest mountain. In spite of its height,
the climb is much less strenuous than Mt.
Kilimanjaro or Mt. Kenya. You will not need to
bring any special equipment to climb this mountain.
A number of hikers' huts are located at convenient
points, so you can stay overnight en route. This
mountain is renowned for the ' Course of Hope.' an
international sporting event held in
February.
Tour
Agenda
The
story of our travels in Cameroon during and
following the ATA 5th Ecotourism, Commerce and
investment Symposium in Yaounde covers so much
territory and explores so many topics, we will be
publishing it in monthly installments from now
through to the ATA 29th International congress in
Douala, May 2004. The fabulous tours our members
enjoyed in 2001 were just a warm up for the main
event, however that experience gave us enough
ammunition to tell our clients and the world that
Cameroon is definitely "Africa in One Country" ...
and worth putting at the top of your "must see"
list. The following itinerary is from the
comprehensive EcoTour of Cameroon laid out and
conducted for a group of North American media and
travel agents by the Ministry of Tourism for the
Republic of Cameroon under the direction of Tourism
Minister, Hon.
Pierre Helé.
Due to unforeseen circumstances, our schedule was
altered slightly, thus we covered more of the
territory by road. In the final analysis, the
overland route allowed us to see and experience
even more of the country than was originally
planned. This will be one of the recommended tour
itineraries we are planning for future tours
sponsored by Africa Travel Magazine, participating
ATA Chapters and partners in tourism on both sides
of the Atlantic.
Editor's Comment: In addition to the Hon. Minister,
I want to thank our tour supervisor Ebenezer Elimbi
and his able colleagues Jean Npombo and Boniface
Piga. They were great companions on the tour and
throughout our 30 days in the country. The tour,
hosted by Tourism Minister Hon. Pierre Helé
and his team, was so extensive, I will cover it in
continuing installments during the year. Our
travels in Cameroon will eventually be compiled in
a book that will help future travelers from North
America enjoy this fascinating country to the
fullest. More chapters will be added in 2003 when
Muguette Goufrani, Robert Eilets and I hope to
return to Cameroon. It was a month we will treasure
forever, and with the passage of time, the images
and voices of Cameroon have not faded one iota -
they' ve become even more vivid in the theater of
my mind. What I truly love about the many
Cameroonians whom I've come to know - is that to a
person, they "Accentuate the Positive."
Day One
Departure from Yaounde for the South West Province
(in the afternoon) with a stop over at Edea.
Arrival in Limbe,
check in, diner and night in Limbe.
Day Two
City tour: Botanic and zoological garden, beaches,
1999 lava flow at Bakingili.
Debuntseha,
departure for Buea via Tole Tea plantations; city
tour of Buea : Prime
Minister's lodge,
Bismarck fountain; Lunch, continuation of city
tour; Mount Cameroun
Project. Departure
for Douala in the afternoon with stop over in Tiko:
Agri-tourism
Arrival) in
Douala; City tour, check-in diner; eve of the
Ngondon festival; Night in Douala.
Day
Three
Ngondo Festival in
Douala; diner and night in Douala
Day
Five
Early flight to
Maroua; arrival in Maroua; check-in into hotel;
Lunch. Excursion to Pouss, fantasia, different
cultural dances; return to Maroua; diner and night
in Maroua.
Day Six
Departure for
Rhumsiki; Lunch at Rhumsiki. Continuation to Waza
through col de coza.
Arrival at Waza,
check-in into hotel; diner and night at
Waza.
Day
Seven
Visit to Waza,
visit Waza National Park. Departure for Maroua via
Oudjilla; diner and night in Maroua.
Day
Eight
Early Departure
for Garoua (Airport)
Departure for
Yaounde. Lunch in Yaounde. Continuation to Bamenda
(by road) in the North West Province with a
stopover at the Banjoun Chiefs palace. Arrival in
Bamenda
Early in the
evening; check-in into hotel; diner and night in
Bamenda.
(North West
Province)
Day
Nine
Excursion to the
Palace of the Fon of Bafut and departure for
Founban in the West Province; Lunch; cultural
dances; visits : the palace of the king of the
Bamuns, an eventual stopover at Ekom Nkam
waterfalls. Assessment and exchange of
views.
(diner). Departure
for the airport. Departure and end of Educational
tour.
Return flight
at 10:45 p.m.
Ecotourism
is defined as "Traveling to relatively undisturbed
or uncontaminated natural areas with the specific
objective of studying, admiring and enjoying the
scenery and its wild plants and animals, as well as
any existing cultural manifestations."
Cameroon,
on Africa's Atlantic Coast near the equator, is
many lands in one.
When Cameroon's Tourism
Ministry took us on a comprehensive tour of this
exciting country, few realized what vast tourism
potential was waiting like an unopened gift.
Several in our group of travel agens and
journalists noticed the line "Africa in One
Country," appearing in tourism literature. Well, it
wasn't long until we discovered that the statement
was true in many respects, from the diversity of
cultures, unique homes and lifestyles, to the
wildlife and breathtaking landscapes we encountered
in our travels. While
many expected that we would fly from place to place
around the vast country, we found that the main
highways were paved and in good condition. Thus
most of our week long tour was an overland journey.
Following the escorted tour, we returned to enjoy
colorful, family-oriented pre Christmas festivities
at the Yaounde Hilton. We also attended services at
two local churches; one being a baptism ceremony
which involved the family of our friend, Mr.
Ebenezer Elimbi. Mr. Elimbi was tireless in his
efforts to see that we saw and experienced as many
aspects of Cameroon's tourism menu as possible. He
was the group's tour leader and our liaison person
for many of the Congress events.
I mentioned in the
'overview that this particular tour, arranged by
Cameroon's Tourism Minister, Hon. Pierre Hele
(left), covered so many facets of the Ecotourism
Scene, it cannot b e contained in one article.
That's why I will be adding new episodes and
paragraphs over the next six months. What's more.
we will provide the visitor a step-by-step version
of the tour, should some of our tour operator
friends and individual travelers want to follow the
path we took. The landscape and points of interest
changed so often, every few hours, there was always
a new sight or sound to draw one's attention. The
final leg of our journey from Yaounde to the
Northern City of Maroua, was by Cameroon Airlines.
From Maroua, we visited a village near the border
with Chad and stayed overnight at Waza National
Park, close to the Nigerian border. I will cherish
every moment of my time in Cameroon, and cannot
thank our hosts enough.
Lasting
impressions from 30 exciting days in Cameroon.
Ecotourism is defined as "Traveling to relatively
undisturbed or uncontaminated natural areas with
the specific objective of studying, admiring and
enjoying the scenery and its wild plants and
animals, as well as any existing cultural
manifestations."
Another step in a
long march towards investor
awareness
of Ecotourism was taken by our host Hon. Pierre
Héle in establishing an outstanding tour
progam during and following ATA's 5th Ecotourism,
Commerce and Investment Symposium in 2001. The
venue was Yaounde, the capital city in early
December, and the event was followed by an Eco tour
of the country by North American travel agents and
journalists.
Because there was so much geography and varied
topography during our trip, I created a simple map
so the average viewer can follow my descriptions
and link the place names to the narrative. Like
most homespun maps, it omits the fine detail and
covers only those centers we visited personally.
More detailed maps will follow thanks to Hon.
Pierre Héle's Ministry team, who were among
the most supportive people I have met in several
decades of work in media and tourism marketing.
Since the journey
was so extensive, my story will be issued in
installments, focusing on certain aspects of the
country through my eyes and ears. In the meantime,
the index on the left hand column provides links to
a variety of items on Cameroon, some of the
material is from our recent Ecotourism Edition. The
photo
gallery
extensive of 100 or more images is certainly worth
a look.
The
stage is set for Douala to host the ATA 29th
International Congress in May, 2004. Many of us had
the opportunity to preview this fascinating country
in 2001, so we learned first hand what great
pleasures and treasures of culture and wildlife are
in store for the visitor. Knowing the dates well in
advance gives us lots of time to invite more of our
colleagues to come and share the
experience
Our country wide
tour combined with ATA's well attended five day
Ecotourism, Commerce and Investment Symposium in
December 2001, were a dress rehearsal. They gave
myself and our travel agent colleagues a small
taste of what's in store for 2004, when Cameroon
will host the Africa Travel Association (ATA) 29th
International Congress. The big event will be held
in Douala, Cameroon's major seaport and largest
city, in May. Mark your calendar now, it's amazing
how quickly the months roll by.
Coming Next: A
recap of our 10 days of travel inside Cameroon,
from Mount Cameroon, and the sandy beaches at Kribi
and Limbe to Maroua and Waza National Game Preserve
in the far north. It was the trip of a lifetime,
and it will be my pleasure to tell it on line and
in our coming editions of Africa Travel and World
Scene Magazine.
Footnotes:
Popular quotation: "Life is music and the beat of
the heart is its rhythm
If you dance, you vibrate and he who vibrates
lives."
Cameroon is a
living tradition and each region has its own
style
It is a country where you can still be Tarzan. In
the last ten years ago, ecotourism has become a
major feature in tour operator's
itineraries.
Yaounde,
Cameroon's capital: Often called the " city of
seven hills," Yaounde was home of ATA's 5th
Ecotourism, Commerce and Investment Symposium. The
climate is relatively cool, Many people used to
think of Yaounde as a fairly sleepy city, at least
in comparison to Douala, but now there's been a
major transition, with modern buildings dotting the
landscape.
Luna Park: Located
only 35 km of Yaounde, the visitor looking for a
change of scene can visit "Luna Park" at Obala.
It's a marvelous retreat with a large swimming pool
and green spaces beside the river. A zoo features
monkeys and gorillas.
Hospitality Plus:
When tourists arrive in Cameroon they are not left
to themselves because according to local custom,
the visitor is full-fledged member of the Cameroon
family. A pleasant welcome is a golden rule in this
hospitable country. We have the proof during our
stay during the entire month of December
2001.
Climbing Mount
Cameroun: Mount Cameroun, which we visited during a
trip to the beach area at Kribi, is West Africa's
highest mountain. In spite of its height, the climb
is much less strenuous than Mt. Kilimanjaro or Mt.
Kenya. You will not need to bring any special
equipment to climb this mountain. A number of
hikers' huts are located at convenient points, so
you can stay overnight en route. This mountain is
renowned for the ' Course of Hope.' an
international sporting event held in
February.
What
I truly love about the many Cameroonians I've
come
to know - is that they "Accentuate the
Positive."
Another
important step in a long march towards investor
awareness
of tourism's potential to transform Africa's
economies was taken at ATA's 5th Ecotourism
Symposium. The topics of Commerce and Investment
were uppermost on the agenda. this was something I
was very pleased to see, having participated in
Globe 2002 and its predecessors for the last ten
years, where the whole focus is on hands-on
solutions. The venue was Yaounde, Cameroon in early
December and it was followed by an Eco tour of the
country by North American travel agents and
journalists. As we
continue to celebrate the International Year of
Ecotourism, Africa Travel Magazine is proud to add
its voice to the program. During our time in
Cameroon, which included almost two weeks of travel
inside the country we took several hundred
photographs many of which are on the
photo
gallery pages on this
web site. Others have been provided by the ATA
official photographers, the Cameroon Ministry of
Tourism and fellow ATA members.
Partners in
Ecotourism: Africa Travel Association has been
building bridges between the developed and
undeveloped world for almost 30 years. ATA is an
'Eco Pioneer,' staging Ecotourism Symposia in
Senegal, South Africa, Morocco and Nigeria. A close
partner (SATH), Society for Accessible Travel and
Hospitality, shares similar ideals and a common
founder. Fighting for handicapped and senior
travelers, SATH has made huge strides. ATA and SATH
work closely with the International Institute of
Peace Through Tourism ( IIPT). All three
associations joined forces in Cape Town South
Africa in 2001 with Ecotourism as a leading topic
on the menu.
Land, Culture,
Wildlife: A more active, involved, compassionate
and caring type of visitor has evolved in recent
years. According to Nigeria's Tourism Minister at
last year's symposium, "Ecotourism conserves the
natural environment and sustains the well-being of
local people. The continent is endowed with a vast
potential of human and natural resources. Its
tourist locations include wildlife parks,
non-polluted beaches, hills and mountain ranges,
waterfalls and warm springs. There's also a rich
culture; heritage, as expressed in our arts and
crafts, songs and folklore, paintings and
architecture, exotic cuisine and numerous historic
relics and monuments." We echo those encouraging
words.
Ecotourism &
Investment : As stated at the 2000 ATA Ecotourism
Symposium, "Economic benefits to be gained from
tourism linked to natural areas have long been
recognized as significant for conservation. By
providing the nation an economic return, it can
justify setting aside large areas of land.
Secondly, entry fees can generate substantial funds
for support management. Thirdly, tourism
expenditures on logging, transportation, food,
guides and souvenirs are a key source of income for
communities." This year, Africa Travel Magazine is
developing a series of Forestry Maps, showing how
the forestry and tourism industries are so closely
connected, with many aims in common. It will
feature hiking trails, national parks, historic
sites, even logging train rides and mill tours for
tourists. We expert support, we will help develop
forestry promotion linked to tourism in your
area.
Cultural
Treasures: Throughout this edition and on our
website you will see examples of successful
presentation of "Cultural Ecotourism," an area that
focuses on preserving the languages, customs,
costumes, family values, beliefs and lifestyle
features of this diverse continent. We welcome your
photos and items on the topic. Visit us anytime at
www.africa-ata.org, or contact ATA head office at
africatravelasso@aol.com.
Agricultural
Tourism: Watch our next edition for major features
on agricultural developments and Agri-Exchange and
Blossom Tours facilitated by this
magazine.
Editor's Comment: In addition to the Hon. Minister
Hele, I want to thank our tour supervisor Ebenezer
Elimbi and his able colleagues Jean Npombo and
Boniface Piga. They were great companions on the
tour and throughout our 30 days in the country. The
tour, hosted by Tourism Minister Hon. Pierre
Helé and his team, was so extensive, I will
cover it in continuing installments during the
year. Our travels in Cameroon will eventually be
compiled in a book that will help future travelers
from North America enjoy this fascinating country
to the fullest. More chapters will be added in 2003
when Muguette Goufrani, Robert Eilets and I hope to
return to Cameroon. It was a month we will treasure
forever, and with the passage of time, the images
and voices of Cameroon have not faded one iota -
they' ve become even more vivid in the theater of
my mind. What I truly love about the many
Cameroonians whom I've come to know - is that to a
person, they "Accentuate the Positive."
Jerry W. Bird is
President of ATA Canada Chapter, Editor and
Publisher of Africa Travel Magazine, and Webmaster
for the ATA site www.africa-ata.org/. He is also
Publisher of Air Highways Magazine, the Journal of
Open Skies, featuring aviation, tourism,
transportation and business worldwide. His career
began with the Edmonton Journal Daily Newspaper,
and expanded into the full spectrum of media -
radio, television, magazines and Internet. He has
won international awards for creativity in audio
visual and print production.
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